People often ask us “What is your favorite place you have sailed?”
We have sailed from Maine to Florida and every Caribbean Island and hands down, our favorite was St. Barts. (also known as St. Barths, Saint Barthelemy). This “Riviera of the Caribbean” is known for it’s red roofed homes, volcanic mountains, a small but bustling harbor, and gorgeous beaches – and you can feel the French influence everywhere
Our sail from Anguilla to St. Barts on December 8 was just about perfect. Wind was behind us as we sailed along Anguilla’s shores. When we made the turn through the Scrub Island cut, the wind was on our beam. It was sporty but we had fun and made great time over those 38 miles.
Arrival in St. Barts
As we approached St. Barts, we passed Ile Fourchue and set our sights on Gustavia. We looked for an anchorage, but once we saw the already crowded harbor, we decided to anchor a bit northwest near Anse a Corossol. Water was deeper (20-30ft), but worth it for the peace of mind of not being too close to other boats. High atop the steep hills surrounding the Corossol Beach anchorage is a tiny coastal village. Locals relax and snorkel on the small beach by the sea cliffs, but tourists find it too hard to visit. You can see the harbor and a scenic dinghy ride along the shore takes you to Gustavia for necessities. Great place to watch sunsets and mega yachts.
We planned on staying until December 17, perfect timing to avoid the holiday crowds. St. Barts is a world-renowned vacation hot spot for the rich and famous, especially around New Year’s Eve fireworks and festivities. Hundreds of superyachts fill the harbor and we hear even entice smaller yachts to give up their anchorage spot for a tidy sum.
When what to our wondering eyes should appear? Sailing friends Kate and Billy from “Carried Away”, a fellow Leopard 48 sailing couple. They had caught a tuna on their trip and we joined them for dinner that night.
St. Barts – 7 Days of Beaches and Exclusive Spots
DAY ONE, we hiked up to Fort Karl, and up the stairs to the overlook of Shell Beach. We searched for some fishing lures in the plentiful marine shops in the harbor. And had to find a dentist for Stephen who had cracked a crown. This was a success and we scheduled and appt for a quick temporary fix.
DAY TWO, we rented a car and toured the island’s Beaches with Kate and Billy.
1. Gustavia Lighthouse is located on top of a hill with sweeping views of the harbor where you can gaze upon the red rooftops of Gustavia, the yachts tucked into the marina, and the turquoise waters. It’s especially beautiful early in the morning when the light is soft, or in the evening when the sun begins to drop and the harbor glows in warm Caribbean colors.
To reach the lighthouse, start from the Fort Gustav area above Gustavia or take the stone steps up from town near the harbor. After that climb, we made a bakery stop to refuel for the rest of the day.
2. Petite Anse, our first official beach stop was an idyllic cove, with shallow water, white sand, and impressive underwater life thriving among the rocks and corals.
3. Anse de Flamands, also known as “Billionaire Beach” boasts residents from the Forbes 500 list, offers wide sandy beach, beautiful surf and two beachfront restaurants.
4. Anse de Lezards, (Anse a Galet), was a bit harder to reach. It is a serene, primarily residential luxury villa neighborhood with dramatic ocean views, surrounded by wilderness.
5. Anse de Cayes is a dramatic, rugged beach with a mix of white sand, pebbles, and rocky outcrops, making the perfect setting for more gorgeous residences. It is highly regarded by local surfers for its consistent waves and a reef break that provides some of the best lefts and rights on the island.
6. Baie de St. Jean (by airport) is a mile-long crescent-shaped beach that is THE place to be seen on the island. We watched the planes take off and land right over our heads, walked the beach and did our share of people watching, swimming, snorkeling and watching wind surfing.
We grabbed lunch at Nikki Beach, the island’s most famous restaurant. We hear that a table reservation during the holidays can cost you $2000.
Other restaurant choices include Gypsea, La Guerite Plage, NAO Beach, Pearl Beach and Sand Bar at Eden Rock, with plenty of boutique shopping in between.
7. Anse de Lorient, in addition to its white sand and beautiful waters, also features the ruins of the legendary Au Tour de Rocher Hotel and Nightclub, formerly owned by Jimmy Buffet, on the hill overlooking the western side. You can also visit restaurants, a market, and the St. Barth Surf Shack if you would like some lessons. The historic Lorient cemetery is across the street.
8. Anse de Marigot, part of a marine sanctuary is a quiet, u-shaped beach that makes a great spot for spotting sea turtles and conch. Unique shady spots allow you to stay longer than other beaches.
9. Anse de Grand Cul-de-sac is a very shallow protected bay, with plenty of wind for kiteboarders and windsurfers. Rent gear nearby – or visit the world famous Le Guanahani hotel and restaurant.
10. Anse de Petit Cul-de-sac is a wild and unspoiled marine sanctuary beach, with plenty of sea turtles and conch, and no homes or buildings.
11. Anse de Grand Fond and Anse Toiny are next to each other on the wild side of St. Barts. They are picturesque but rocky and full of Atlantic Ocean salt spray. To get to Toiny Beach, drive toward the hotel entrance, but look for the small designated parking lot just after the private driveway, then walk down the hill. Although we did not have time, you could lunch at Le Toiny Beach Club, or hike 30-45 minutes loop around the rocky headland, called The Point.
You can walk the coastline path connecting Toiny to Grand Fond, that even hasoutdoor gym stations (pull-up bars, dip stations, and benches).
Once you enter the Grand Fond beach area, a short trail leads to the famous natural pools of Grand Fond, the Washing Machine (water crashes over the beach and swirls between the rocks) and above that, a small cave like cove that offers a good amount of shade with a bench for a mid-hike break.
12. Anse de Grande Saline is reached by driving along a salt pond to the parking lot, then walking about 5 minutes to get to the beach beyond. No buildings, just coral, waves, rocks, birds and clothing is optional (head to the right side).
13. Anse de Gouvernour, in a crescent-shaped cove is the perfect mixture of rocks and coral on one side, and plenty of sand on the other. It’s proximity to Gustavia makes it a popular after-work stop.
14. Shell Beach – Located a short walk from Gustavia’s shopping district, Shell Beach is the only “in town” beach on the island. The surface of the beach is made up of millions of tiny shells (hence the name) instead of sand. You can also anchor here in the right conditions and dine at the restaurant.
CAR TOUR COMPLETE! With our beaches tour complete, we turned in the car and did some shopping in downtown Gustavia. Since dinner is served so late (8 pm), we decided to return to our boats and rest up from our very full day. Special thanks to Kate for her navigation.
DAY THREE
We provisioned at the Super U by the airport. Wonderful store that had everything you would expect at a French grocery store. However, the cab right there and back was $50 each way. The only grocery stores in downtown Gustavia were small gourmet shops.
BTW, the Sailor’s check in website is here. https://clairances.portdegustavia.fr They do not take SailClear or any other French forms. They separated from their customs and immigration process from the Guadeloupe/Martinique system back in 2007.
DAY FOUR
We motored over to Anse du Colombier marine park. What a treasure! Mooring balls make it easy, and there is a limit on boat size of 60 feet, so it was not filled up with superyachts. They visit in their tenders😊!
Colombier Beach is so remote that many frequent visitors to the island have never set foot on it. There is no parking lot – it is only accessible through the trails.
Supposedly, the land was once owned by billionaire David Rockefeller whose home’s ruins are on the peninsula on the west side.
We hiked uphill to see the views, the wildflowers, the organ pipe cacti, frangipani, Leucina and Croton, and the Lignum Vitae tree (which sailing blocks used to be made). There is also an eastern side hike, which we would have attempted if we had more time.
DAY SIX
We motored over to Ile de Fourchue to hike, snorkel and relax. This amazing bay is actually a caldera – a collapsed volcano. The mineral rich water, and the marine park protection made the snorkeling excellent. Although the interior of the island is privately owned, all beaches in St. Barts are public.
DAY EIGHT
Back to Gustavia to check out and head to St. Kitts.
St. Barts Photo Gallery
